This climb has very long unprotected runouts on at times flaky rock,and is not recommended for 5.6 leaders. However it will give one a thirst ,more so if a beer salesman is involved. It does of course provide great views from its summit!. Starts just down to the right of the wave left of the chocolate topped wave on the Surfing the Swell formation. P1)From a few feet right and below the top of the wave traverse out to the right to a bolt at about 30' . From here continue climbing up and to the right until above a flake formation and double anchors 200'5.5/6.R P2).Follow a flaky slab towards a groove to reach double anchors. 200'5.4/5.R P3)Climb more or less straight up to double anchors . 150'5.4/5R. P4). More long runouts heading straight up through black rock  to double anchors. 200'5.4/5R.P5)Straight up passed a large hole to the summit (best pitch)to double anchors.200'5.4.R.. Rap the route

Beer Festival

Tynesider's Lament

The Way of the Increpids

The Grand Expedition

Tsunami

Surfing The Swell

Carnivore

Marble Slab.

Heart Of Stone

Mercury

The Grand Expedition..1340'.III 5.8+R.. This climb is one of the classics of the Reef. The run outs are a bit long on the more difficult pitches. Starts about 300'left of Surfing the Swell route. From the top of the next wave left(south) of the Chocolate topped wave (see Photo)

P1)Climb to a bolt at about 70'. Move up into the groove then to a two bolt anchor. 190'5.7R.

P2)Continue up the shallow groove and face to double anchors. 190'. 5.5R

P3)Up open slab/groove to double anchors 190'.5.4R.

P4)Climb more nice slab angling right about 50' to reach the rim of the wall above the secret garden to double Rap Anchors.190'5.4R ......

RAP 80' into the Secret Garden....

P5)Straight ahead climb a very easy slab trending right passing a fairly obvious shallow groove system on the left to below a black smudgy dike system that forms the last two pitches.200' 5.0.

P6).Up mini grooves a few feet to the black rock. The first bolt is at about 60',then another slightly up to the left,pass this to double bolt anchors. 190' 5.8+R

P7)Straight up the black rock past one bolt. When the the difficulty ease follow an easy ramp on the left.At its end (about 40') traverse back right along a narrow ledge to double anchors(register) directly above the lower part of P7.180'5.8+R. The true summit can be reached by an easy 200' scramble to the left.

Descent....Rap down to the Secret Garden.Walk left(north)for about 200' to a gully(this is where the route Surfing The Swell comes up.)One now descends this route.4th class down the gully on its left side for about 300'to double rap anchors. Rap 200' to just right(south) of a large flake to drilled peg and bolt rap anchor. A) either rap to the left north, then down the first pitch of Surfing The Swell or B)Rap down towards the start of the Grand Expedition start, and 4th class rightwards the last 200'to the ground. First Ascent .Paul Ross, Layne and Sheriden Potter. Mar 29th 2004

Starts about 50' right of Tsunami (small cairn) ,located on the Surfing the Swell formation.Nice climbing ,has a small section of flaky rock.The crux on the third pitch is short and well protected.

(P1. Up the slab towards on undercut crack,then climb to a bolt at 100'. Continue slightly to the right to double anchors. 200'5.6R.

(P2. Straight up to a bolt at about 30', trend up right then back left to a bolt at the bottom of a right facing corner. Follow Corner to good juniper tree belay. 140'.5.8.

(P3. Climb about 40'passed two bolts on awkward rock (crux) then follow the yellow arete above and right of  the Tsunami groove, through a notch to good ledge and double anchors.180' 5.9d (

P4.Up black easy slabs to reach anchors at top of P4 Tsunami.240' 5.0. Descend route or follow Tsunami (about 400'+) to a fine summit and views.

Descent:- Rap 200' to a rap sling on a spike .Here one can 4th class down and around the corner to the left and anchors at the top of P3 ,then 3 raps to the ground.

"The Way of the Increpids" Takes a line up clean slabs between Mercury and Tsumami.This is the easiest route to date to reach the summit of the Surfing the Swell formation.Starts about 100' to the right of Mercury ,just right of the lowest part of the slab between the two waves.

P1)Climb past a bolt at 80' to double anchors. 160' 5.6R.

P2)Go up the small groove on the right then to the left of the brown swirl then back right to its top. Bolt anchor . 250'5.4.

P3)To the groove on the right then easy slab to double anchors.200' 5.3.

P4) Another easy slab to large ledge. 200'5.3.

From here 4th class several hundred feet to the summit.

Descent. From the large ledge traverse left (south)for about 50' to the rap anchors on Mercury ,follow these to the ground.

P1.Head up the slab to a bolt which protects the moves into the groove. 5.9 180ft

P2.Up groove to flake belay. 5.5R 200ft

P3.Up groove to bolt belay. 5.0 200ft

P4.Up groove to bolt belay. 5.0 200ft

P5.Up groove to bolt belay. 5.0 200ft

P6.Follow dyke to bolt belay. 5.0 180ft

P7.4th class past a tree then left up ridge to a great summit and views.

Descent:4th class down to top of P6 then rap the route.

This is the first route to be climbed on the Eastern Reef Slabs.The FA party thought the climb would be about 600' instead it turned out to be 1400' and the climb had to be rappelled as the back of the slab overhangs about 400'.

P1)The climb starts at the lowest part of a clean white slab down left of the chocolate topped colored wave.(small cairn).The first pro bolt is at about 60'. From here the difficulties increase..two more bolts to belay on ledge to the left.5.9R 140'

P2)Follow crack above then traverse left on a line of flakes until one can climb up between large spikes. Anchor on flake or drilled piton 25' up to right. 5.8R 170'

P3) Straight up the edge above gully to bolt belay. 5.7R 200'

P4) Follow edge to bolt belay 5.6R 200'

P5) Up easy grooves to the hidden garden 5.0 250'

P6) Move about 50' left then climb the white open slab (left of big gully) to drilled piton.5.5R 200'

P7) Just to the left is a thin black dyke which is followed to  the black block at the top of the climb. Two bolt anchor . 5.6R 200'.

Only eight pieces of pro was used on the whole route.Gear.. Take a few friends #1 to #3 .Possibly a  Hand drill and a few extra bolts to back up single bolt belays as the FA party ran out !Two 60m ropes. The first ascent took 7 hours with a party of three up and down.

Descent:- Rap the route. Below is a photo with 5 routes marked on what we call The Surfing The Swell area . Surfing was the first route climbed on the slabs.....A).Triple Slab Buttress area . B).Sinister Slab.III.6 pitches.5.7R 1200'.C).Suduction of Stone.III.8 pitches.5.7+R.1600'.D).Tsumami III. 6 pitches. 5.9R.1760'. E).Surfing the Swell. III. 7 pitches 5.9R. 1400'F).Fairy Slab.II 3 pitches.5.6x.1000'

(P1.From the top of the Chocolate wave go straight up slightly right the right of a small pinnacle. Double anchors. 200'5.4

(P2.Continue straight up then left up gray rock to a large ledge for 150'then continue a further 80' to another ledge below were the slab starts to steepen. 5.0

(P3 Climb up to some streaky black rock ,above this about 30' left of an obvious pot hole is a bolt.From the bolt continue to double anchors below the notch/groove.200'5.7R (P4 Ascend groove to the top. 80' 5.5R

Approach from the Univa trailhead. Walk south for about 20 mins. Takes a line up the right (north)side of the Surfing the Swell formation. Starts on the gray colored slab down to the right of the chocolate topped wave,about 30' to the left of a gully. A good introduction to easy but run out pitches.P1). Climb the gray slab trending slightly left to a shallow groove and double anchors. 200' 5.6R. P2). Follow the easy groove then move over to the right and climb steeper rock just left of a black ledge to double anchors. 200' 5.6X. P3+ 4th class about 600' to the summit  Descent. 4th class back to top of p2. Rap the route.

Park at the Univa trail head. Walk south for about 20 mins just passed the impressive amphitheatre of Bongo Canyon.The route goes up a shallow groove system on  the left skyline of the buttress that forms the south side of the canyon.Scramble to the top of the dark rock wave, cairn. A good introduction to the slab climbs.

(P1 .Straight up the smooth looking slab to an overlap , over this and continue to a steeper brown rock section ,pull over this and continue up a groove to double anchors,cam protection. 190' 5.7+

(P2. Take the rising traverse to the right and enter the obvious groove ,follow to double anchors. 190'5.5

(P3. Directly above is a thin dark seam ,climb this to summit anchors. 100'5.3R. Register in cairn several feet above anchors. Rap the route

Takes a line between Tsunami and Seduction of Stone . Starts just above and left of the lowest part of the slab between the two waves,small cairn....

P1 Straight up to a bolt at 70',continue to double anchors.100' 5.7R

P2)Trend slightly left to a bolt at 40'. Do not go to the the groove on the left but follow slim dark dyke's up to the right, good cam placement in the crack at the small overlap. Then straight up to double anchors. 200'5.8+R

P3)Go under the white spot to the large open groove system. Up this then easy scramble to anchors below a clean open slab.250'5.3.

P4)straight up from the belay and head up through pot holes to double anchors.,no pro. 200' 5.6R

P5)Continue straight up the open slab to double anchors ,no pro. 200' 5.6R.

P6)4th class left to the ridge to a fine summit.

Descent :- Return to top of P5 and rap the route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in K Crags